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Belly, a Korean Take on Pork, Opens in Williamsburg, Brooklyn
By FLORENCE FABRICANT New York Times
Headliner
BELLY Billed as a bacon omakase, the tasting menu here is less about a breakfast strip than about pork belly, cured and uncured, and given a strong Korean accent. Phillip Cho and Anna Lee, fledgling restaurateurs born in South Korea, held bacon dinners for friends over the past year with a reception enthusiastic enough for them to open this informal place, set with picnic tables. Their chef, Brian Crawford, who worked with Todd English, serves a nine-course menu ($45) for 20 seats at a bar and communal table. Among the dishes are bacon carpaccio (sliced, cured pork belly with truffle oil and shaved Parmesan); bacon sushi seared tableside and served over rice; pork jowl (a kind of bacon, too) with chive kimchi; a chunk of pork belly glazed with gochujang; and pork belly schnitzel with forceful Korean mustard. The finale is a sweet kimchi-iced doughnut served with bacon fat whipped cream. “You don’t get a decent experience with Korean bacon in New York,” Mr. Cho said. “Our goal is to make it fun and approachable.” There’s a takeout window that opens onto the street. There’s also Beats, a karaoke bar on the lower level. (Opens Wednesday): 219 Grand Street (Driggs Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 888-777-0087, bellynyc.com.
Opening
EAST WIND SNACK SHOP Chris Cheung has opened a Manhattan branch of his spot in Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn. In a vendor-filled market, he sells pork dumplings, aged beef pot stickers, vegetable dumplings and bubble tea: Broadway Market, 483 Broadway (Broome Street), eastwindsnackshop.com.
MÉLANGE BAKERY CAFE Among the new food options at Newark Liberty International Airport is this in-house bakery and cafe with the pastry chef and chocolatier Jacques Torres as its consultant, working with the management company OTG. It’s the chef’s first airport project, and it’s a big one. The bakery produces thousands of items daily, notably croissants, bagels, muffins, macarons and chocolates: C-1 Concourse, Terminal C, Newark Liberty International Airport, otgexp.com.
MS. YOO After opening Mokbars in Chelsea Market and in Park Slope, Brooklyn, the chef Esther Choi is unveiling her latest, an airy two-story gastro pub trellised with vines on the Lower East Side. It’s named for her Korean grandmother Jungok Yoo, who taught Ms. Choi how to cook. A burger called the Ms. Yoo is dressed with bacon kimchi and gochujang aioli. Fried chicken, Korean sausage on pretzel rolls, cocktails and spirits are also served. (Wednesday): 163 Allen Street (Stanton Street).
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MOLLY’S MILK TRUCK Hoda Mahmoodzadegan has run a food truck in Hoboken, N.J., serving American comfort food, for about five years. Now with the executive chef Joseph Nierstedt, an alumnus of the Per Se kitchen, she has opened a fast-casual restaurant. The menu features waffles in the morning, then burgers, grilled cheese, a hot chicken sandwich, salads and ice cream desserts, covering the same culinary terrain as the truck: 214 Knickerbocker Avenue (Troutman Street), Bushwick, Brooklyn, 718-628-3663, mollysmilktruck.com.
OMAKASE ROOM BY TATSU Tatsuya Sekiguchi, who was a sushi chef at Sushi Yasuda, is opening his own omakase restaurant with eight seats and an 18-course tasting menu for $120. There is also an à la carte menu. (Wednesday): 14 Christopher Street (Gay Street), 212-367-2067, omakaseroom.nyc.
QUEENS BULLY The name is a play on Queens Boulevard. And some of the chef Arim Isabel’s ingredients come from the local Greenmarket; herbs are grown on the premises. The comfort food menu touches on many of the borough’s diverse populations with dishes like Korean wings, shrimp ceviche, naan pizza and barbecue. The setting is industrial with rustic touches. (Thursday): 113-30 Queens Boulevard (76th Road), Forest Hills, Queens, 718-520-8600, queensbully.com.
THE SOSTA Samantha Wasser, a founder of By Chloe and the creative director of ESquared Hospitality, is opening this spot for the company to feature casual Italian fare, including salads, focaccia sandwiches, antipasti and pasta dishes. The chef and a founder is Ali LaRaia. (Thursday): 186 Mott Street (Kenmare Street), thesosta.com.
SUSHI ZO HANARE One of New York’s first sushi restaurants from Los Angeles, Sushi Zo in Greenwich Village, has opened a compact Midtown Manhattan branch with just nine seats for a $250 omakase: 127 East 39th Street, 917-265-8054, sushizo.us.
Chefs on the Move
DAVID LARIS, a global chef if ever there was one (Greek heritage, born in Australia, worked in London, with restaurants in Hong Kong and Shanghai), is coming to New York in the fall. He will open Eden restaurant in the Cachet Boutique NYC hotel on West 42nd Street, where the menu will be pulled from his eclectic background.
CHRISTINA LECKI, who was at the Ace Hotel and its restaurant Breslin, is the new executive chef at Reynard in the Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
Looking Ahead
FAIRFAX Gabriel Stulman announced in an email that, after dinner on July 23, he will close Perla Cafe, the Italian restaurant that opened on Minetta Lane in 2012, then moved nearby to West Fourth Street last year. He cited the number of Italian restaurants in the neighborhood as a possible reason for diminished business, and plans to replace it in early August with this project. He described this new endeavor as a “laid-back” cafe during the day that will become a wine bar in the evening, and said he was drawing inspiration from his travels to Copenhagen, London and Paris. The chef at Perla Cafe, Jack Harris, will stay on: 234 West Fourth Street (West 10th Street).
NORTH 3RD STREET MARKET A year-round food hall and market occupying 15,000 square feet is to open in September. Di Fara Pizza; Ed McFarland of Ed’s Lobster Bar; and Fany Gerson’s La Newyorkina are set to participate. The market will be run by Mrktpl: 103 North Third Street (Wythe Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
Follow NYT Food on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
An earlier version of this article, using information provided by a publicist, misstated the name of the chef David Laris’s new restaurant. It is Eden, not Eden West.
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